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This new filter has been running in the new tank for about a week and I have 0 everything, But my pH was only at 6.2 its 7.2 in the old tank. I did a small water change only 5 gallons. and the pH went up to 6.6.
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I hope you meant 0 except for my NitrAtes which are 20 ppm.
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But my pH was only at 6.2 its 7.2 in the old tank.
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Yep CO2 drives down pH, perfectly OK, will not harm anything. Common sense prevails here. If your KH is not kept at least at 4 you leave yourself open to a pH crash.
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As for Nutrients for my plants. I am using Plant food tabs and flourish Iron supplement in a liquid form. If there's anything I should know JAY, nows the time.
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OK now you are into the thick of it. I can not get you up to speed in a few paragraphs. I can answer questions and give advice but you need to read and learn about keeping plants. There is no simple do this 123. Each tank is different and unique. You are going to experiment and learn. That's what makes it fun
I can offer this... I am assuming a heavily planted tank.
1. If your light source is producing over 2.75 to 3 Watts per gallon you probably need CO2 (30 ppm)
2. You will definitely need to supply your plants with NO3 (20 -30 ppm), and
PO4 (1-3 ppm)
3. You will definitely need to supply your plants with a Trace element mixture. I use Seachem Flourish.
I do not dose Iron. There is enough Iron in the trace element mix and my tap water.
I do not use plant tabs. They give me no control over my dosing. Aquatic plants will very quickly adapt to taking their nutrients out of the water column.
THE REGULATOR
Has two gauges. One gauge is the storage tank gauge. My pressurized ten pound tank shows approximately 800 pounds per square inch.
The regulator steps down the pressure on the outlet side to 25-30 pounds per square inch and the gauge shows that pressure. It is the working pressure of an available 25-30 pounds that feeds into the aquarium, and is ADJUSTED by the needle valve.
See the post "Measuring CO2" in the freshwater plants section.
Regards,
Jay