BJP

DAY 6

Tanks A and B

4 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate
-----------------------------------
Tank C
4 ppm ammonia, .25 ppm nitrite, 5ppm nitrate
-------------------------
Tank D
1ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 10ppm nitrate


I ran a dillution test of 1 part water from Tank A to 3 parts tap water to verify the ammonia readings are accurate and not underscored.

BJP

DAY 7

Tanks A and B

4 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate
-----------------------------------
Tank C
4 ppm ammonia, .5 ppm nitrite, 5ppm nitrate
-------------------------
Tank D
1ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 10ppm nitrate

Loman

BJP, and any one else,

While still early I think it is fair to say that tank D will complete the cycle first. The readings starting day 5 have been interesting though. So if as we are often questioned, someone needs a tank immediately (say 5 days). Which tank would you intro fish into. The decline in ammonia is great in D but the Nitrite level off the scale might not offset for the reduced ammonia.

__________________
Loman

24 Gallon Salt Aquapod
20 Gallon Freshwater
Various QT tanks
2 x 75 Gallon Reefs in planning stage

BJP

At this point I'll be surprised if it doesn't finish first. I kinda expected that going in though.

I don't think I'd suggest any of these tanks as they are right now. Before fish could be added the ammonia and nitrite would have to be dilluted down via a large water change approaching 100%. If I was bringing the ammonia and nitrite down right now with a water change then I'd have to select Tank D right now because it has what is apparently the largest current bacteria bed in place and hopefully that would be sufficient to keep the ammonia and nitrite under control when fish were added, especially if feeding was controlled or limited. The nitrite would be the most likely culprit for having a spike with the new fish large enough to worry about but with the addition of salt and water changes that would probably be survivable.

The best choice is not to get in a situation where choices like that have to be made.

If it was me I would probably combine the Bio-Spira from Tank D with a greater addition of aged material similar to Tank B which is actually starting to annoy me by being slow. If I could live without the salt backup I'd probably add lots of hardy plants also on day 1.

I think whenever possible we should skip the baggie and directly sprinkle it around including in the filter. I know it's annoying to pick out later when the color doesn't match. I've still got a few pieces of gravel from the lake in my 75 that should be simple to extract with the fine sand substrate. Just dip out the gravel pieces and sand from the spot, sift the net while extracting to let the sand fall through leaving the gravel in the net. I've been meaning to get around to that for the last 10 months or so.

I still don't think Bio-Spira is going to be useful for newbies fishless cycling. It would obviously work but I feel it's too fast taking away a lot from the hands on learning experience and research time. Newbies to aquariums are kinda like teens wanting to drive. A little drivers training time prior to getting behind the wheel can save lives and property damage. Obviously if they're already behind the wheel and headed for a crash when they get here, might as well toss in the Bio-Spira as an airbag. The scary part is I feel I might inadvertently be tossing the keys to a bunch of kids. Most people want instant gratification and given the choice will not fishless. It's one of those things that's really only appreciated in hindsight.

BJP

Small things can make big differences. Don't forget I'm doing this heaterless plugging along slowly around 70 or so. If I was in a hurry and owned a heater I would probably be much further along if I started in the mid 80's or higher.

Jon Cee

The following quote was edited....

The question was, "what are you going to do with the tanks when you are done"? (Or something like it....)

I bet you could sell your Cycled tanks on e-bay, or Craigslist. My point is, (as a beginner)...Someone just might pay extra for all the equipment and a cycled tank to 'jump' into this hobby without all the work....

(Not me, it's just an idea for you...)

JC

__________________
Two empty tanks waiting for fish...

1. 55 gallon

2. 10 gallon

BJP

I really don't need the money. Each tank with 5 pounds of gravel and a cheap HOB retailed for under $25 total. I'm going to attempt to give them away to friends and anyone who wants them. I'd just do something impulsive with the money. I just dropped $1,300 on a sofa and recliner solely because they have a Redskins logo built in. I figure $100 or less is comparable to the cost of a bad date.

BJP

DAY 8

Tanks A and B

4 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate
-----------------------------------
Tank C
4 ppm ammonia, 1 ppm nitrite, 5ppm nitrate
-------------------------
Tank D
.5ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 10ppm nitrate



In addition, Tank C received it's second dose of Cycle as instructed on the bottle.

BJP

DAY 9

Tanks A and B

4 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate
-----------------------------------
Tank C
1 ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 10ppm nitrate
-------------------------
Tank D
.25ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 20ppm nitrate

BJP

DAY 10

Tanks A and B

4 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate
-----------------------------------
Tank C
1 ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 10ppm nitrate
-------------------------
Tank D
.25ppm ammonia, nitrite levels off the test kits range, 40ppm nitrate

* Noticing a pretty large jump to the nitrate today. Maybe the nitrospira are finally kicking into high gear and TANK D is about to finish. I've had nitrite levels drop rapidly in past tests.