Jillianne

Can someone tell me which testing method is more reliable, reagent or test strip? I was using a reagent to test the water and picked up some test strips, my problem is they are giving results that are very different. The test strip is saying all levels are within safe ranges and the reagent (ammonia) is saying a level quite different. Help!

Jay

Hi Jillianne..

Generally the reagent test methods are superior to the dip and read variety.

Having said that, hobby test kits are notoriously inaccurate, and should only be used to get you in the ballpark, unless you go to the trouble of carefully calibrating each test with a known sample .

What kit are you using?

Also, simply put, ammonia test kits measure all ammonia compounds not just the toxic ones, and they are subject to false positive readings if you have used certain water conditioners etc.

What is the ammonia reading in ppm.?
Old tank?, New tank? Is it cycling?

Need a bit more information in order to really help you out here

It would be helpful to know the levels for...

Nitrite
Nitrate
pH
KH
GH


Regards,
Jay

Jillianne

Have been using the Tetra Laborette kit up till this point, will have to get the reading this evening when I get in. But this is what I can remember...

PH 7.5
Nitrite <.3
GH (very soft- I have a water softner on my house lines)
Ammonia strip says between .25 & .50 reagent says closer to 1.5

Have used only Start Right and a PH reducer in my main tank.

It is a new tank (only 29 gallon), about 2 weeks into the cycle

Have a few fish in it, all seem to be doing well, no sign of stress/disease.

Can you recommend a good test kit that won't give me these all over the board readings?

Jay

I have never used that test kit, I prefer Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, when I test.

IMO I would dump the start right and pH reducer (not in the tank). Within reason, trying to adjust pH artificially up or down is just not necessary. Plus they may interfere with your test kit readings.

IMO and IME products which claim to jump start your bio filter are useless.

There is only one product out there that has the confidence of experienced folks, it is difficult to find, and is very perishable, sooo..most go with a fish-less cycle process.

We would still like to see the other numbers, but it sounds to me like your
cycling process is developing, perhaps another two weeks.

Enclosed is a basic outline of the importance of Cycling a Tank, What is really going on, and how to do it correctly.

Hope this Helps

Regards,
Jay

Jillianne

ok, ran the tests last night, here are the results

pH - holding at 7.5 (down from 8.5 when tank initially started)
Nitrite - not quite .3
Nitrate - haven't picked this test up yet
KH - 5
GH - 1

Haven't added any more of the pH reducer since the intial does to bring it down from 8.5...

Have lowered the settings on the water softner for the house lines to harden the water up a bit...

Suggestions of what to use to dechlorinate the water, since you don't recommend the start right?

Also, the tank was somewhat cloudy this morning, milky not green, is this normal at this stage of the cycling?

Your opinions, please.

Thanks
Jillianne

Jay

Milky cloudiness in a new cycling tank is perfectly normal. It may last for several weeks.

Your GH is good!

I use "Prime" by Seachem.

What is the pH of your source (tap?) water? Use a reagent test!

Regards,
Jay







What is the pH of your tap water

Jillianne

I was curious about the cloudiness since my other smaller tanks only did it in the begining, this is the 2nd time this one has clouded.

I was told by a shop owner that the water might be to soft, that most fish prefered water harder than what mine had tested.

Also the pH from the tap runs between 8 and 8.5 (usually the 8.5) with the reagent test which is why I used the reducer in the initial setup to get it down below the 8 but haven't used it since and it has been holding steady at 7.5.

I seem to be running into snags as I increase tank size, hoping to get these issues resolved before I "turn on" the 55 gallon one.

Jay

IMO Yes your GH could stand to come up some, 8 degrees would be good, could even go a little higher. Might help a little with that high pH

From what I understand about your tank the cloudiness is one of two things or both.

1. Micro fine particles from the gravel which take forever to filter and settle.

2. A bacterial bloom or protozoan bloom or both. This is very common in new cycling tanks, it will go away by itself although I have seen it last for weeks. It is harmless.

My advice is leave it alone and let it run its course, along with the pH, until the tank is cycled. Once your tank begins to produce Nitrates that will push the pH down a little.

Tuning your water softening will help. Water softeners exchange magnesium and calcium (Which is hardness) for sodium. Like I said shoot for 8 degrees.

I think we need to revisit the pH issue (high) after the cycle is complete, otherwise you will just be chasing your tail, so to speak as artificially adjusting pH can be tricky and frustrating. There is enough going on in the tank now.

Patience It will eventually all come together

Regards,
Jay