| Setting up a freashwater aquarium part 2
Part two
Step #5 : Establishing biological filtration
Biological filtration is simply the action of a select group of bacteria in the aquarium purifying the water. Fish release urine, ammonia, and solid waste into the aquarium water. Over time, this fish waste can build up, especially during the first few weeks of starting a new aquarium. Fortunately, these beneficial bacteria, called nitrifying bacteria, convert fish waste (ammonia and nitrite) into a harmless product called nitrate. The bacteria create what is called a "biological filter" in the aquarium. The bacteria need time to grow and develop. If too many fish are added all at once or if too much food is added, ammonia and nitrite levels will reach poisonous levels.
Step #6 : Choosing fish for your aquarium
Now you've got your aquarium ready for fish. But remember, only add a few fish at first. It takes time for the aquarium to develop the natural balance required to handle a full tank of fish. If you add too many fish at once, they will pollute the water, get sick, and may even die. Don't make this common mistake! For example, start a 10-gallon aquarium with about six hardy fish. Choose peaceful varieties like swordtails, guppies, tetras, and barbs. Other beneficial fish are bottom scavengers, such as a Corydoras catfish, which live on the bottom, foraging for food in the gravel. Pleco catfish and flying foxes help keep the aquarium clean by eating algae that grows on plants, rocks and the glass. Use your local pet shop as a resource to help you select the best fish for your aquarium.
Proper feeding of your fish
Tropical fish require a good diet to develop beautiful colors and stay healthy. Overfeeding, however, is one of the major causes of fish loss. Overfeeding causes fish waste (ammonia) to build up to a harmful level. During the first few weeks, feed fish only once a day. Feed only enough flakes that they can eat in five minutes. If food is seen sitting on the bottom of the aquarium, the fish have been overfed.
Step #7 : How to handle algae
Eventually you may begin to see algae grow on the glass or gravel. It may appear brown or green. Algae are underwater plants that grow in all aquariums. To reduce the growth of algae, make sure the aquarium light is turned on for no longer than 12 hours each day. Routine maintenance that includes making partial water changes (20% of the aquarium water) every month helps dilute algae-promoting nutrients like nitrate and phosphate. Phosphate and nitrate levels can be monitored with Phosphate and Nitrate Test Kits. Also, use an algae scraper to remove algae from the glass. Algae-eating fish such as plecostomus catfish, otocinclus, and flying fox will also help clean up the aquarium.
Step #8 : A clean aquarium is a healthy aquarium
Dirty aquariums not only look bad, they are unhealthy for your fish. A dirty aquarium promotes fish diseases and poor water quality. By following a few simple maintenance steps, your aquarium will always look beautiful.
Monthly:
Clean the filter and add new activated carbon to the filter cartridge.
Replace about 20% of the water in the tank. Partial water changes remove excess pollutants and algae-promoting nutrients. You can make a partial water change with a pitcher. But, the easiest way to do it is with a gravel siphon. A gravel siphon removes debris from the gravel while also removing water from the aquarium.
Be sure to use Stress Coat to condition the tap water and protect your fish. If necessary, add Proper pH 7.0 to stabilize the pH.
Clean the inside of the aquarium with an algae scraper.
Weekly:
Test the pH, ammonia, and nitrite levels.
Regular water testing is the only way to monitor water quality in the aquarium. The pH level may shift over time and require an adjustment. If the ammonia and nitrite levels are always zero, it means you are properly caring for your aquarium. | 
200g SW 
