Tommy Gun

From your pictures, it does look like your problems are Diatoms. I know that Jay has a good grasp on how to deal with them and depending on the types of fish you have and your current stocking, I am pretty sure that Otocinclus catfish would help you out by eating them. However, before adding a fish to your tank for algae control, you want to make sure that there would be enough to sustain the new fish long term or make a plan for how to suppliment their diets when algea or diatoms are not abundant.

2leftfins

Well in my other tank I am just finishing up an Ich problem. I am going to wait another week and hope the Ich is done its evil. Then get some Algae controllers and quarantine them for a few weeks. By the time I move them into my tank a month will have passed.

I will have to do something in the meantime. I prefer the non-chemical approach if possible.

I

Tommy Gun

First, I would suggest you keep treating your Ich problem even after it appears to be clearing up. When there are no spots on the fish is the best time for you to rid your tank of the Ich you cannot see.

For the algea, or diatoms, I would take some of Jays advice and clean the pipes and rocks in a mild bleach solution and then rinse well and maybe another soak in some dechlor conditioner to get the chlorine from the bleach gone.

If it is on the glass, I would just get a scrubber device or an algae magnet to knock it down as it appears until you are ready for the new fish. Depending on the type of fish you have, I would go with a handful of the otto cats. A lot of people love them and they are algae eating machines!

2leftfins

Next water change I will start scrubbing the pipes and rocks. I will also invest in the magnet. And the Otto's will be on the shopping list when I am Ich free.

As for treating the Ich. The spots have been gone for a week and I have done 2 50% water changes and 1 25% water change. I put in very warm water when I change not really caring if the final 2 fish live or die. I want the Ich gone. Anything else I should be doing there?

2leftfins

I went to a store that has nothing but fish and fish supplies. I could not find the Catfish you mentioned. The guy at the store suggested a 100 dollar 'Diatom filter'.

I'd like to put that 100 bucks towards a canister filter rather than some 100 dollar gimmick.

Tommy Gun

The diatom filters are worth it from what I have heard, but usually needed more in a saltwater tank/sump system. I would keep looking for the Otocunclus catfish or ask if they can order them for you. In my area, they are about two to three dollar per fish which is a severe discount over a 100 dollar filter for just diatoms.

BJP

The guy at the store may be confussed. A diatom filter uses diatomaceous earth to filter water. It's not really a gimmick. It's probably the best mechanical filtration you can get. I don't remember all the specks off the top of my head but I believe I may have read something about it being able to even filter parasites and items as small as algae spores. That filtration method has been around for a long time. I believe its just overkill for a well maintained freshwater system being usually reserved for that fine polishing of the water some tanks can benefit from at times. I'd want a good normal filtration system first if I had to spend the money for one or the other.

Loman

I have not used diatomous filters for a long time but the older ones where an insert into a canister fileter. You added filter cartrige with diatomous power that essentially clogged the pores more and made everything polish. I agree with BJP it is overkill most of the time

__________________
Loman

24 Gallon Saltwater Aquapod
1 Royal Gramma
1 Blue Devil
1 Bicolor Chromis Lyretail
1 Scooter Blenny
1 Chocolate Chip Star Fish
Crabs and Snails

20 Gallon Freshwater
Swords, Zebra Danio, Neon Tetras, Albino Cat Fish, Plecostomus, snails

10 Gallon QT Saltwater
10 Gallon QT Freshwater (Divided)

2leftfins

I'd want a good normal filtration system first if I had to spend the money for one or the other.

I have the simple power filter on the back of my 55 gallon tank. I assume that even a low end canister filter would do a better job than what I am using.

When the guy said 'Diatom' filter I assumed he meant it filtered smaller particles that my filter missed. It looked like some sort of submersible filter. Either way, I was not biting.

BJP

Not neccesarily. Cannister filters are better chemical filters by not allowing any bypass of the water in certain arrangements where standard HOB style cartridges typically give you a teabag affect allowing much of the water to pass by the carbon instead of being forced through it. In terms of mechanical filtration I prefer the ease of snatching and rinsing the cartridges frequently getting better water quality compared to having the waste sit inside a cannister and break down. You can rinse/replace the mechanical media in a cannister also but I've never seen one that was fast and simple to get into. I've snatched, rinsed and returned Emporer cartridges in under a minute. In terms of total collection and circulation I like one collection point for every two feet of tank bottom. In that regaurd multiple HOB's for the cost of a single cannister excell. Also not having all my eggs in one filter gives me a safety factor if one fails when I'm not there. In terms of bio, HOB's can be much better although you can attach bio additions like the clamp on bio-wheels to the output of cannisters. Having the bacteria sealed in a cannister can lead to problems during poweroutages and flow stoppages. Having the bacteria submerged in the water inside a cannister leaves far less oxygen availible to the bacteria than in some of the HOB designs like bio-wheels and venturi injected Milleniums.

On an annoying note I've never serviced any cannister in place without some degree of water spillage.