test kits, and further rambling...

oOOOo

Have been reconsidering my testing regimen. Or rather moving to a regimen rather than my current slap-dash non-regimen.

Currently using Mardel's 5-in-1 strips plus Seachem's Ammonia Alert and pH Alert. (Don't entirely trust the pH alert.)

API's freshwater test kit is on sale at the moment. $27.19 @ petco.com. Looks like API's kit does pH, high pH, Ammonia, nitrite, gH and kH.

Any recommendations on a good test kit(s)?

And what should I be testing? Certainly these 6:
ppm nitrate NO3
ppm nitrite NO2
Total Hardness = gH (magnesium and calcium ions)
ppm Total Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity = kH = cabonate hardness
pH
(The above 5 are the 5-in-1 test strip pads from Mardel)

ammonia NH3 (Seachem Ammonia Alert or Jungle Quick Dip test strip)

These 4 are important for plant growth and doing away with the nitrates.
Iron?
Co2?
Phosphate?
Potassium?
Don't know, off the top of my head, how to test the last 4. Guess I'll review the testing aisle at the lfs. I do know some testing for CO2 is mentioned in the CO2 supplement stuff. I'll have to review...

Any thoughts on accuracy of test strips versus reagents? I'm guessing that the electronic testing equipment is the most accurate, though I wonder about the need to calibrate. And the electronic stuff seems prohibitively priced.

Btw, while I like and have confidence in seachem's ammonia alert hang-in-tank persistent monitor (more so than in mardel's) I have less confidence in seachem's pH alert. Filled 2 10g aq's from the same python with zero additives. Seachem tag 1 says 7.8, tag 2 says 8.1. Mardel 5-in-1 strip reads pH 6.7 from that same water. Can I calibrate the pHAlert? Note that tag 1 should be reduced by 1.1, and tag 2 should be reduced by 1.4 to get accurate pH readings? (I can note it in washable pen on the glass right over the Alert. Same as I note the expiration date.)

What kinds of logs do people keep? Little notebook? Spreadsheet? Rapidly dimming protein-based memory? (I've been using the latter, with predictable results - hence the current re-thinking.)

oOOOo

Ended up with API's Freshwater Master Kit from the LFS. LFS guy (these seem not only knowledgable - but ready to defer to the expert when an individual's expertise is exceeded) suggested that test strips are just for seeing if you need to investigate further. When the test strips suggests that you do, then you pull out the reagent/test-tube serious test kit. Seems obvious now...

And I guess the AmmoniaAlert and the PhAlert are an extension of the testing continuum on the other end. Kind of a canary in the mine: a quick glance lets you know if something changed (for better or worse) triggering you to get out the strips to see if you should test further. With accuracy being worst for the hang-in-tank Alert tabs, mediocre for the test strips and best for the "drop tests". I think "drop tests" is what the LFS guy called tests using the Master Kit.

Oh, and tracking. Talked myself into starting a spreadsheet tracking my water properties. Using Excel and a seperate tab for each tank. With notes of supplements between tests. Probably need to add a set of headers for the API tests. Also should probably put the Alerts on the left side (least accurate), the test strips in the middle and the API tests on the right (most accurate).

Better testing through chemistry?

Jay

Hey oOOOo

I have read a number of posts where you are "trying on" the theory that growing plants can reduce your nitrates and phosphates and therefore prevent algae and/or high NO3 and PO4.

Actually the dynamics of water chemistry and algae are a little counter intuitive when it comes to a planted tank. For example: the concept of limiting factors in growing plants says essentially that the lack of or inconsistent amounts of plant nutrients will trigger algae growth as opposed to say high phosphates.

IMO the following tests are crucial in a planted tank.

CO2
NO3
PO4
KH
GH...plus the need to know what the Calcium/Magnesium ratio is and from your local water company as much about the trace mineral salt content as possible.
K...recent research indicates that K just needs to be measurable.

There are some good threads in the planted tank forum on Nutrients and Algae that may be worth a visit.

Let me know if I can help.

Regards,
Jay

oOOOo

Now that you write it out, I recognize that I have tangentally been wondering on and off about getting a handle on my phosphates. And, I guess, potassium as well. (Some long ago Agronomy training.)

Sounds like if I can get the nutrients in sufficient balance and a like balance of plant load I can zero algae ... but if one or more nutrients slip out of balance, algae is sufficiently adaptable to bloom on a surplus of one or more nutrients?

This weekend's vacuum/water change had an interesting note: negligable algae. Got the nitrAtes down to 22ppm or so ... by the Mardel 5in1 test strip method. And is it possible the fish looked happier immediately? I think I saw some mating behavior from the otos and even the neons were acting frisky.

kH just measureable? Isn't the "alkalinity" also the buffering? The reduced volatility of pH swings? I've taken to adjusting kH first (with sodium bicarb/NaHCO3/baking soda) and finding I didn't need to muck with pH later. Actually looking forward to trying that out in the pool soon.

<ricky ricardo>I guess I got some reading to do!</ricky ricardo>

Thank you Jay.

Ruadh

The K that Jay refers to, I'm pretty sure, is potassium not KH. That is listed separately.

Rick

Jay

Yes K is potassium.

Alkalinity is a confusing word and I wish it could be tossed out of the hobby.

Alkalinity is the measurement of a solutions capacity to resist changes in pH due to an increase in a mild acid but it is expressed in mg/l or ppm of carbonates and bicarbonates, hows that for confusing. Referring to the whole thing as KH would eliminate a lot of confusion.

GH is related but not the same thing.

Jay

oOOOo

Yes, looks like I did cross wires on the kH vs. K. Thanks Ruadh, Jay.

And lest I ever get in any danger of understanding the chemistry of the WATER, I'll start to be curious about the chemistry of the TESTS and various colored indicators...

Loman

I would not go there . It is a scarey place.

oOOOo

No where near understanding the water as of yet. But I would be a sucker for a 20-test colored Alert thingy to hang in the tank covering every water parameter know to man, fish, or chemist.