pappyy3

Disagree. It's not how many times you feed, - - but how much at each feeding.

Just ensure that you don't overfeed at each feeding. If there's food left over, then you're overfeeding. An amount that they will eat in about 4 to 5 min's is generally the rule - and it works well. If your not sure, then feed a little less to be safe.

Undergravel filters are notorious for creating problems with nitrates and is why many people have now stopped using them.

When you get a chance, perhaps you may thing of upgrading your filtration system to something more efficient? (canister filter or HOB filter -- any suggestions people )

Anyway the advise that's already been provided on this topic will guide you to getting your nitratyes down - hope it all goes well

BMueller777

That's what I ment by less food = less poo

Oops

__________________
The early bird may get the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese....

Freshwater tanks:
45g: 1 Random river fish, 7 Goldfish, 2 Angel Fish, 2 Black Skirt Tetras

rgdigital

I have a filter that has a plastic tube coming into the water that sucks water up into the filter area (a replaceable, charcoal-filled envelope filter) and dumps it back into the tank, in addition to the two powerheads sucking the water from the bottom, once it's gone through the gravel filter.

What is a canister filter and/or an HOB filter?

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Also, what about reversing the flow of the powerheads, so that they suck in water and force it into the gravel, by way of the 2 tubes in the corners and up through the gravel? Is that possible? Would the sudden release of all that extra crap really cause damage?

pappyy3

** Where would all the debris go if your blowing it into the water?? Unless you have a strong filter that will remove the gunk quickly, then YES, it will cause problems. You'll simply be removing the gunk AWAY from the bacteria in the gravel, and the bacteria cannot break it down.


** Suggestion: I didn't realise you were using powerheads for your UG filter. Attaching your powerheads to sponge filters (Cheaper than cannister and HOB Filters) is in my humble opinion a far better option than undergravel filters.

The advantage these have is that they are cheap, they do a great job with biological filtration, will keep your water crystal clear and are extremely easy to clean and maintain.

TetrasRMe

High nitrates are the result of inadequate water changes, overstocking, over feeding or a;; of the above.

In your case I do not believe you are overstocked. How big are your fish?

If you are changing water 20%/week that should be enough.

You may be overfeeding. I feed mine 2 times a day but I also do 20% water changes/wk and my nitrates remain 10-20.

How high are the nitrates in your tap water? Mine is about 5 ppm. Tap water can contain high nitrates. Do a check out of curiosity.

As suggested by some, cut back on your feedings to once per day or smaller feedings 2 times per day. Do a 50% water change every other day for a week and then see if that helps bring it down and stay down. I like it to stay below 20.

Intersting!!

rgdigital

I'll measure the nitrates in my tap water -i've been curious myself.

Also, how long do the chemical tests last anyway? I've had them for about 2.5 years...

Here's a picture of my tank... nice and clear

TetrasRMe

I think that the chemicals last a very long time. I use API trdty kit and it does not have an expiration date buy instead has a "lot or batch #".

But after 2 1/2 years I would probably toss what I have and buy a new set.

Mine do not last that long because I check my water weekly and sometimes more. I guess I am obsessive when it comes to the water.

I also use RO/DI water that I buy from an outlet that costs $.25/gallon. That water has nothing except pure H2O. I buy 15 gallons a week and "buffer" it with 10 gallons of my tap water.

Using RO/DI water is the way to go if you can find it and afford it. You have to be a little careful with it because the ph is about 6.4 and the KI is 0. Thus I buffer it with my tap water to add carbonate resulting in a final carbonate level of about 75 ppm. Without the carbonate it is too easy to have a ph crash.

I guess I wrote more than you asked. Sorry but for me the water is what it is all about. Good luck!!

SouthFella

My " two cents" stop feeding the fish for 3 days. I only feed my fish once every 3 days for what they can eat in 5 mins then do a quick vac of the gravel to vacuum up the leftover food and debris. Overfeeding is the number one cause of tank failure. And yes buy new chemical and test kits . Many expire within 2 years . ( you made me go check mine lol ) . Be careful with water changes you can wreck the cycle for sure . Trade one problem for another. I dont change no more than 25 % of my water at a time and I condition my water for 2 or 3 days before adding to my tank. Let me know if you want to know how to condition tap water . gravel should be around 1.5 to 2 inches deep. 1.5 lbs of gravel per gallon. Have you ever done a good deep cleaning of your gravel in the last 2.5 years ? When I had an UGF years ago I turned it off and my nitrates problem was resolved . UGF systems are a whole different approach to tank maintence and few use it nowdays. Keep us posted on yer results. and good luck. ( You been lucky for 2.5 years, now time to pay the piper . lol )

More food maketh more poo poo .. Is that a Confucsis saying ? lol

It is true though, especially for aquariums since the fish have no plumbing to flush it away like us humans do. An outhouse would be nice in there .

Jay

I guess you have picked up by now that UGF are notorious Nitrate factories, along with the other caused mentioned.

There has been some other information posted in this thread that I think we need to revisit...

This is true BUT pure water will not support biological life. The RO water needs to be restored to a condition that will support and is healthy for fish. Mixing it 50/50 with tap water may add some buffers, but you have neglected the GH (all of the trace minerals and electrolytes that are essential for cell function. The importance of GH is very often overlooked by hobbyists because they do not understand it.

This is really not very sound information. The bacteria needed for the nitrogen cycle DO NOT exist in the water column and therefore canot be water changed away. Adding a quality conditioner before or after the water change is all that is needed. That said, large water changes in a "poorly maintained" tank can cause osmotic problems, but that has nothing to do with cycling a tank.

.

For a FW tank there is really no reason to do this anymore. It is something hobbyists did years ago when the excellent water conditioners we have now did not exist.

You use PRIME..great! it takes care of everything instantly.

Regards,
Jay

jazz

HA. My fish go crazy even when I walk by the tank, thinking it's dinner time again. I'm hip to their little game of "we're so hungry, feed us again!"