Jason

Hello again,

I searched and read past posts and have a few questions that I couldn't find answers for.

• What is BBA - what does this stand for?

After reading about a 72 hr. blackout period followed by Erythromycin to treat cyanobacteria;

• How many days should you treat with EM?
• Should the lights still be off during this period?

I realize that adult fish can go a week without food but know that fry and juveniles should be fed a couple of times a day. I would need to turn on the lights to feed the fry and juveniles;

• would this prolong the blackout period needed?
• Ideally, how long should aquarium lights be on per day ( with/ without plants )?

Thanks for any help.

Jay

Hey Jason..let me try to answer

BBA = Black Brush Algae, which is actually the red algae "Rhodophyta" This stuff can be really nasty and very difficult,not impossible, to eradicate. Tank Blackouts will not kill it off.

You should treat according to label instructions with EM. It is available at most good lfs. It is very important that you treat for the full course and dose prescribed, so that you do not end up with an antibiotic resistant bug. Lights make no difference.

In order to be effective (kill green photo-tropic algae), a tank blackout must last a full 72 hours. It is important that NO LIGHT be available for use by the algae or you will have wasted your time.

In my High Light, CO2 injected, heavily planted tank, I use about 3.75 watts per gallon of CF light for 8 hours.

In my Low Light, low tech, Heavily Planted tank, I use about 1.75 watts per gallon of t5 light for 8 hours.

In my non planted tanks, as long as there is sufficient ambient light to establish a night day cycle IMO it really does not matter.
MY only concern is that it be relatively low intensity and a duration that does not encourage algae.

Jay

Jason

Thanks Jay,

There is alot of great information on this Forum! What a great new look too. I guess FTF had discontinued the large article section. I learned a ton from those articles.

I had searched cyanobacteria and read a bunch of threads and thought I read that the cyano was in colony with other common algae, therefor the double approach was needed; the blackout then the treatment with Erythromycin.

I was told at a reputable LFS that one maybe two days was all it took to kill off cyanobacteria with Marycyn (EM). The package says 5 days, but that is for fish bacterial infections. I thought that cyano would be different in length of treatment.

• Is there any harmful side effects for fish or the biological filter from having cyanobacteria in the aquarium for a long time ( months or longer)?
• Does sunlight affect cyanobacteria in anyway?
• What does cyano- feed off, nitrates and phosphates?

As far as the blackouts, what a great approach. I guess I would have to move any fry to another tank if I would do one.

Thanks, Jason

Jay

Harmful side effects...not that I am aware. I see it occasionally between the substrate and the glass. There is probably always some in the tank. I know that basic issue heterotrophic bacteria can crowd out the nitrifying bacteria in neglected tanks and filters and cause major problems. I'm not sure about cyano.

Sunlight...once cyano gets established sunlight will keep it flourishing. Remember from millions of years ago this stuff contributed to providing us with an atmosphere.

What does it eat...there are lots of theories about what triggers cyano in the aquarium. Nitrates and phosphates always are mentioned. Yet I keep high nitrates, high phosphates, and high light for the plants and do not have cyano. Anaerobic pockets in the substrate are sometimes mentioned. I think in terms of aquariums the research is not complete.

You are right a combination of total blackout and EM will kill it, but you need to be careful you dose the antibiotic long enough to kill all of it so as not to end up with an antibiotic resistant strain. You must also be careful with a blackout, if the cyano outbreak is massive, which can take only a few days, the quick kill of some of it can suck up the O2 in the tank, set other bacteria off, a real train wreck. And..this stuff can manufacture its own food so a blackout may not get it all.

This might be a good topic for you to research and post an article. I would put it up on our new HOMEPAGE.

Jay

Jason

Jay,

I had treated this twice already in this tank for two day treatments each time. It seemed to be successful except for, as you mentioned, a little between the gravel and the glass. I do not want to keep treating for the fishes sake so I definitely want to do it right this time. Also I want to avoid the antibiotic-resistant strain. I will go a full 5 days this next time and mix the gravel or stir it up so the cyano will be in better contact with the treated water.

We had this in our 72 gl about two years ago. We ended up taking the fish, plants, and driftwood out and bleaching the tank. I know, a nuclear bomb! It killed everything. We had planned on tearing this tank down anyway to do a custom DIY concrete background. I want to avoid this "last resort" at all costs.

I will continue to look for information on cyanobacteria as I'm sure this will not be my last time dealing with it. I definitely will let you know or post any good info I might find. Thank you for your help.

Jason

Jason

Here is a link to a very good article about cyanobacteria:

http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummaga...nobacteria.htm

This article addresses the causes. Another article I read mentioned that high DOC's
(dissolved organic compounds) is a potential origin of cyanobacteria, hence most of it starts on the substrate. Once again, it all comes down to water quality

I hope this helps other fishkeepers as it definitely helped me understand it better.

Jamie6194

I concur, water quality can determine the growth of algae. I wrote a Step-by-Step
article on "How to Kill Algae in Your Aquarium". It will guide you through ways to improve filtration, kill algae, and so on.

It will be posted below, in a link. Hope it helps!