gm333

Ok guys all this great info and no one mentions how long has she had the bulbs? Unless I missed it.
How long has the current bulbs been in your light system? If it has been over a year you should replace them.

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farmrgurl

I really appreciate all who answered my questions. The tank is looking somewhat better today and that gives me some hope. I do see your points about better quality lighting (by the way, mine is 384 watts), but how does the explain that my corals have been thriving for the past 5 months?? Also, if it was just a nitrates issue, wouldn't you think that my inverts would be dying????? Those guys are looking really happy. I dose purple up and occasionally substitute with kent reef essentials. I feed live phyto daily. Thanks again for all the posts! You guys are much more help than the local fish store.

farmrgurl

I just got new bulbs in November. Thanks!

farmrgurl

Also, how does this explain that I can grow zoas like weeds in my tank??????? But, not do well with mushrooms and frogspawn? Could this have something to do with water movement?

Chitown1

Corals use light (in part) to get their energy, once they have used all they have to give and the supply is not replenished, the result is a slow loss of color, growth and eventually life itself. I have been looking for a report I read that did a test on 2 set ups, 1 with T5 and the other with MH, the test was in its 6th year and the results were obvious. The T5 tank had several corals replaced within 2-3 years while they were vibrant and growing under MH. Most corals will live for decades if properly kept. I understand people dont want to discourage people by saying they need expensive components to have a reef tank, but I look at it a little differently, I think it is more discouraging to attempt something without the proper equipment as well as the fact as I dont want to kill a creature of any kind, just to have a "showpiece" to display, I do my best to accept the responsibility of caring for them as best as I can. This does not mean people cant have a beautiful tank, but it should be kept within the limitations of their ability, equipment and budget. This is a true "you get what you pay for" hobby, you dont need to spend 1000's on a salt tank but you cant keep the same specimins in a $300 tank as a $3000 tank, it is just the way I look at it.

Chitown1

Zoa's and mushrooms have lower light needs than most corals do, I am surprised to hear you have issues with shrooms, they do need a little more current than Zoa's but not as high as frogspawn.

rayjay

I would be curious to know just what set up that T5 has. Is it HO, how many watts, and does it utilize SLR's.
Most older T5 set ups were done without SLRs and they basically were about the same as using pc's.
I won't mention the name of the site, but the biggest salt water forum has numerous threads with people switching to T5 HO with the proper reflectors, with the only detractors for the most part complaining that you don't get the shimmer of the Halide bulbs.
In this area, probably over half the set ups done in the last 2 years would be T5 HO with reflectors. They are so bright that they make VHO look like incandescent. Some switching from VHO to T5's had burning problems if they didn't start with the lights up to acclimate the corals.
If you really want to beef up the T5's make sure you use HO and SLR's, and, for ballast, use IceCap 660 ballast and overdrive the bulbs.
Overdriven the the 660, the light intensity is about 50% more than using a T5 ballast.
I will switch one of my tanks over soon and use a 660 with it to get readings of my own to work with.

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RAY'S REEF
Because there are so many ways to succeed, my ways are not the only ways or touted to be the best ways, but just happen to be my personal preferences. Learn as many ways as you can from different hobbyists until you can decide which way might be best for you.