Starting from scratch...

Shock

as rychek said, i would also go with the 75 gallon, I personally went with the regular remora over the pro because in my 55 the 3 inch pump + skimmer box would take up to much display room.

But definitly go with a 75 gallon, the 20 gallons makes a BIG difference as he said. My tank stays in my bedroom, which my AC is set at 75 so onces it hits 77 it kicks on honestly my tank gets hot. up to 84* by the end of the day. but with power compacts would make it even hotter. but i need to add some fans to my canopy.

to recap. 75 gallon with remora pro and skimmer box, t5s (maybe 4 bulb setup since your not doing corals, 4 bulbs would allow you to do some corals), RO/DI water. and a bucket of salt, you will be set.

Dun Properly

Thanks very much guys, your advice is very valuable to me and I appreciate everyone taking their time to help me out. I have another question about where I can find a good quality and good looking stand. All the ones I see in the stores are overpriced and poorly made. I was thinking of getting our cabinet man to build me a custom stand, but if anyone knows where I can find one that would be great. My wife is exicited about a new aquarium as well, but the stand is almost as important to her.

Also, I read the sticky about lighting and it said that the T5's run hot and the power compacts run cool. Is this incorrect because you guys are saying the opposite? I will still use the T5's if that is what everyone recommends, but I just wanted to get a little more clarification.

Here is a cut and paste from the sticky....

T5 High Output ("T5"and/or "T5 HO"): T5 is intense fluorescent lighting that has been popular over seas for years and is becoming more popular in the US. T5 runs fairly hot but not as hot as MH lighting. Bulbs come in 24w, 39w, 54w, and 80w. Corresponding lengths are 24", 36", 48", 60" respectively. Each bulb requires a single reflector to be fully effective. Typically the preferred method is to fit as many bulbs over the top of the tank as possible (6 bulbs with reflectors will fit over a standard 75g). T5 bulbs work in pairs and require a ballast to start them which may be purchased as a kit. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 12-14 months. These can be run in a low profile canopy, they are also used to supplement MH lights with actininc bulbs.

Power Compact ("PC"): A moderately intense fluorescent u-shaped bulb. Typically PC lighting runs cool and does not use a reflector due to its shape. Popular opinion has it that PC lighting is slightly less intense than VHO. Some argue that PC and T5 would be on even ground with use of a proper reflector but the bulb's odd shape may rule this option out. PC lights usually are sold with a built in ballast. Can be run in a low profile canopy, they are also used to supplement MH lights with actininc bulbs.

Rychek

From what I understand is that PC bulbs and T5HO (High Output) bulbs are the same technology. However, the PC bulbs are U shaped. The shape of the PC bulb is inefficient in that light from the inside of the U strikes the other side of the U which essentially wastes that light and causes more heat. Whereas the T5HO bulb is a small tube that, when paired with a good parabolic reflector, directs a much higher percentage of the light down into the tank.

The above applies to T5HO. I'm not yet sure how T5 VHO (Very High Output) bulbs compare to CP bulbs.

There is some interesting information at aquaticplantcentral.com in their science-aquatic-lighting forum.