Saltwater lighting types and uses

Chitown1

Saltwater Aquarium Lighting


LED Lighting
LED lighting is relatively new technology, it has many benefits including variable spectrums, low heat output, uses less power the metal halide. Another benefit is the lifespan of the bulbs, LED's can have a life span of 10,000 hours or more which is far more then most other lighting types. The disadvantage is the cost, as it is new technology it is the most expensive option

Metal Halide ("MH"): The most intense lighting available, and also runs very hot. Some information suggests that T5 High Output is just as, or even more intense however this has yet to be adopted in the mainstream school of thinking. There are many different MH setups available. In general bulbs are 150w, 175w, 250w, 400w, and 1000w and come in single ended (SE) and dual ended (DE) styles. Also in general a MH bulb with proper reflector can cover an area of 24-30" square - so you will most likely need 2 or more bulbs for your tank. MH bulbs require a ballast to start them; this can be purchased separately or as a kit. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 9-12 months. MH will require a tall canopy due to heat output and may even require a chiller to maintain temps in the tank in warmer climates.

T5 High Output ("T5"and/or "T5 HO"): T5 is intense fluorescent lighting that has been popular over seas for years and is becoming more popular in the US. T5 runs fairly hot but not as hot as MH lighting. Bulbs come in 24w, 39w, 54w, and 80w. Corresponding lengths are 24", 36", 48", 60" respectively. Each bulb requires a single reflector to be fully effective. Typically the preferred method is to fit as many bulbs over the top of the tank as possible (6 bulbs with reflectors will fit over a standard 75g). T5 bulbs work in pairs and require a ballast to start them which may be purchased as a kit. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 12-14 months. These can be run in a low profile canopy, they are also used to supplement MH lights with actininc bulbs.

Very High Output Fluorescent ("VHO"): VHO is a moderately intense fluorescent light with a built in reflector. VHO runs slightly hotter than T5 lighting. Popular opinion has it that VHO is not quite as intense as T5, but many VHO users still swear by them and get good results. VHO bulbs require a ballast to start them. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 6-9 months. VHO requires a medium height canopy due to heat output, they are also used to supplement MH lights with actininc bulbs.

Power Compact ("PC"): A moderately intense fluorescent u-shaped bulb. Typically PC lighting runs cool and does not use a reflector due to its shape. Popular opinion has it that PC lighting is slightly less intense than VHO. Some argue that PC and T5 would be on even ground with use of a proper reflector but the bulb's odd shape may rule this option out. PC lights usually are sold with a built in ballast. Can be run in a low profile canopy, they are also used to supplement MH lights with actininc bulbs.

Normal Output Flourescent ("NO"): Low intensity lighting. These would be found in hardware stores etc. Cool running, but not much intensity. Fine for fish only tank, not the best choice for the reef aquarium, but can sustain lower light corals. Can be run in a low profile canopy, they are also used to supplement MH lights with actininc bulbs.

Lighting is always a subject of heated debates amongst reef keepers. Everyone tends to stick to what they know and defend it to the death! It's a good idea to ask around anyway and get some feedback before buying anything.


Lighting Color and PAR
Just about all the lighting available is available different Kelvin temperatures - which is a fancy way of saying different color spectrums. The higher the number the more blue (such as 20k) the lower the number the more yellow (such as 6k). Mixing and matching Kelvin temps can also achieve desirable results.

The various color temperatures produce different results. The following statement is subject to some skepticism: While 20k bulbs make corals "pop" (called an "actinic" effect) they tend to not bring out the true color of the corals (such as when the lights are off the corals will look very different). 10k tends to bring the true color of the coral out without relying on actinic effect.

If you are keeping corals an important variable with lighting is the amount of Photosynthetically Available Radiation (PAR). The higher the PAR of a bulb the faster corals and other photosynthetic organisms will grow. Too low of a PAR value and they may not grow and even perish. The PAR value of some bulbs is given, but not always.

cjculver

So I posted the note about the xmas gift for my husband. the unit recommended to me was the HQI-T5-LED...It's a current brand unit and it will put off 762 watts...I was also told that I could get 2-36" lights that would give off 1062 watts, but they also said that it would be too much power for the tank...Which based on the website (here) is a bunch of crock considering the fact that he wants to get coral and anemones....?? your oppinion?

Chitown1

You can have too much light and it is just as bad as not enough but the spectrum and intensity are as much if not more important than just going by watts.

What size tank are the lights for?

cjculver

Oh sorry...
it's a 125 gal. 72x18x19. he has 2 clown fish, damsel, gobby, blenny, dwarf lion, banded shrimp, snails, emerald crabs, chocolate chip star fish (which he may get rid of if i can actually find a great light for coral and anems.) He already has the live rock as well. His tank has been up and running for about err...1-2 yrs now...it's a hobby that he has a freaking natural talent for.

Chitown1

The 762 would be plenty for a 125 but the 1062 would not be over kill, it is not a very deep tank and it will hold pretty much any coral or anenome you want with the 762. You / He will need to acclimate the new lights though, keep them 10-12" above the normal height and lower at a rate of about 1" until you get to the desired height. By just adding them and turning them on you will bleach any LR or corals in the tank now.

cjculver

So I'm actually looking at buying the 72" 6/96 Current SUA Power COmpact Orbit Fixture.....it says the bulbs will be 40-130 wattage.....Randy (my husband) is really getting serious about his tank and he'll probably want a bigger one when we move into a bigger house...do you think this unit I'm looking at would be a great entry level one for the corals then or would you recommend buying a higher wattage?

Its also saying that the daylight goes from 6700k to 10000k...I know that 10000k is the safest mode to go with. I also know that if you want coral or anemones that they recommend 8-12 watts/gal and a 9-10000k...with the depth of his tank the 10000k will probably be more than enought right??

--this is scarey, i think i might just might be understanding this stuff...--

Chitown1

I would go with either a T5 or metal halide fixture over compacts, your original post states HQI which is MH. the k rating is only the color of the bulb and has nothing to do with the intensity so it is a matter of preference. When I started this hobby, my wife thought I was nuts, now she is into it as well, so all I can say is,
"welcome to the addiction"
Pretty soon you will have your own tank.....

cjculver

haha God forbid! I'm the xmas gift gal as well as this forum...my budget...


$1500...
as stated above...i'm thinking about the current usa 72" 6x96 fixuture. details below
Dimensions: 72" L x 11.6" W x 4.25" H
Daylight 6,700k/10,000k: 4 x 96 watt
Actinic 420nm/460nm: 2 x 96 watt
No. of Lunar Lights: 6
Fan: Yes (2)
No. of Switches: 2
Total watts: 576
Total amps: 4.5
Configuration: I

what do you think? I just need to make sure that it can be "hung" above the tank...we don't necessarily want it mounted to the tank...
i found a stealer $ of 500

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewIt...033~tab~0.html

link of the one i'm thinking about