Algea and parameters

rayjay · 03-02-2007, 09:05 AM

Algae stages are all part of maturation of a tank!
This maturing process can be 6 months or it can be a year and a half as many variables play parts in the process. There is generally a variety of different algae you could encounter in that time period, most times ending up with green.
For cyano, which is a bacteria that for some reason is called an algae, I remove manually as often and as completely as possible, even though it keeps comming back, as this is an excellent way to remove the elements providing sustenance for it's growth.
Mechanical harvesting, frequent water changes, and control of feeding the tank are basically all I do when starting a tank and getting it to maturation.
Testing for many things like copper and phosphates may not help at all.
Some, like copper, are because there is no GOOD test kit available for the hobby for accurate determination, and others, like phosphates, because much phosphate is used up by the algae before you can get a reading on it.
The most dependable kits specifically produced for the hobby, would be Salifert followed by Seachem, but some hobbyists use chem test company kits from companies like LaMotte, which could be considered to be more accurate, but also more expensive.

WhoDey · 03-02-2007, 11:40 AM

TommysGirl,

Buy a Halimeda Plant. This Macro Algea will compete for the extra phosphates and nitrates in your tank. Adding a small 3 inch one will do the trick. I got one for $15 at my local fish store and I saw a huge decrease in the algea in my tank. They grow verrrry slowly so you don't have to worry about them taking over your tank. (they call them the cactus plant) Try this inexpensive trick before buying expensive equiptment. Trust me!! I would recomend this guy to anyone with a saltwater tank. I actully like mine a lot, it adds a nice green color to the tank!

WhoDey · 03-02-2007, 11:42 AM

One more thing... Are you using powerheads at all to create water circulation?

TommysGirl · 03-02-2007, 07:51 PM

RayJay,

Thanks so much for your reply. I do a weekly water change of five gallons (thirty gallon tank), but should I be doing more frequent changes? Also, I feel like I've been very careful about feeding. I was only feeding every other day about a half a cube of frozen food, but I switched to once a day. I use a turkey baster though and I shoot it out as they eat so very little gets uneaten. As far as removing the algea mechanically, I do try to get as much of it as I can with my siphon hose thing, when I do water changes. It's such a weak pull though, that I don't think much is getting pulled. How do you do it? I wouldn't even be so alarmed if my sweet little emerald hadn't kicked about the same time all this stinkin' algea began to get so bad. Thank you so much again, for all your input!

WhoDey,

Hey, thank so much! I will definately look into the Halimeda plant. I do have two Maxi-jet powerheads in my tank. I have a 400 pointing more down towards the back and a 600 pointing towards the middle of the front. It gives it a good circular motion in the tank, or at least it seems that way. I did have a 1200 on the facing the front, but my star polypls and my frogspawn didn't appreciate that, so i switched for the 600. Would you recommend going back to the stronger 1200? The algea problems started when I still had the 1200 in there, and it's not worse-just not better! Thanks again for your input.

Last of all, I went ahead and turned the power filter off, as Chitown1 suggested. I have an extra Bak Pak laying around, that I could add to the one I already have. Do you think that would be beneficial, or a waste of electricity?

I'm sorry to have so many questions you all-I really appreciate all your input and suggestions. I read up on these things but to hear what you do that works, is much more comforting!! Have a great weekend everyone!!

TommysGirl

rayjay · 03-03-2007, 03:42 PM

Unfortunately, there is no magic bullet to get through the algae stages. Many things come in to play in just how long it takes, one being luck, or lack of it.
The only thing wrong with taking the HOB out of service is the fact your water motion will be less now, and you really do need more at this stage of maturation especially. If a power head is too strong on a coral, point it at a side, deflecting and spreading out the output before it actually gets to corals. Personally, I would have just removed any filtration material from the HOB and left it on for water motion.
I don't understand why you have no flow for siphoning. What do you use?
To remove cyano, use a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter hose, (3/8" would be better for your size of tank) and start the siphon, holding the tank end close enough to the cyano that it sucks the cyano up but nothing else. As long as the exit end of the tube is about 18" or more lower than the waters surface, there should be plenty of suction. The cyano doesn't hold to anything well and most can be sucked up this way. The more frequently you do it, the sooner you will get through that stage.
Although you are not feeding too often, you may be feeding more than the fish need, and even though they eat it all, the excess nutrient will still affect the tank when the fish produces it's waste in urine and feces.
That being said, the algae stages will still happen even if you aren't over feeding, but it will be done with sooner.
There is nothing wrong with doing smaller, daily siphonings, replacing the water with new water just like a normal water change, and changing more overall than you have been doing. Even changing 15g a week this way will help tremendously most times.
I think I forgot to ask before, or I have forgotten your answer if I did, why do you keep the s.g. at 1.022 when you have corals and inverts in the tank?
While it would work for some inverts and corals, it won't work for all.
As for the crab, are you sure it wasn't a molt? Many times hobbyists think a death has occured when it was only a molt.

Chitown1 · 03-03-2007, 08:52 PM

Another thing you can do is to set up a refugium with some LR, LS and macro algae. It will compete for the nutrients that create the most common algae blooms. Blooms do not always happen with a new or newer set up, they can also happen in a established tank as well depending on parameters and nutrient levels. I would also suggest adding a powerhead for increased flow and you can get a hydro flow which will attach to the powerhead and the water pressure will rotate it creating a tidal effect and will keep to much pressure from concentrating in one spot. I still say loose the filter not just the media, you have more than enough LR to provide bio filtration and the flow provided by a HOB filter is very limited at best.

TommysGirl · 03-04-2007, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayjay

I think I forgot to ask before, or I have forgotten your answer if I did, why do you keep the s.g. at 1.022 when you have corals and inverts in the tank?
While it would work for some inverts and corals, it won't work for all.
As for the crab, are you sure it wasn't a molt? Many times hobbyists think a death has occured when it was only a molt.

I thought 1.022 was within the range, and a salinity to strive for? I've read several things that confirmed my assumption on that. I'm guessing that it should be higher?

LOL-Believe me, I know a dead creature when I see one. I've seen both my shrimp and crab molt, and this was the real crab for sure. I wish it had just been a molt-he was one of my favorites.

I'm going to keep the filter turned off, for a while at least. I did a lot of reading about filters this weekend, and I read several things that backed up what Chitown has said about HOB and cannister filters. I'll keep close tabs on my parameters.

As always-thanks for all your advice and input!

TommysGirl

jd@ga · 03-05-2007, 12:09 AM

I agree with rayjay on almost everything posted. I also agree there is NO magic bullet for an algae problem. I do know this , having a 30 gal. any changes to your tank will effects on your overall tank health. This includes adding more l/r, w/c, and changing your filtration. Before a change be it filtration or a more frequently w/c take into consideration the overall effects it is gonna have on your tank. While your tring to solve a problem by a change, you can very well be creating a bigger one with the change.
And remember , "one mans trash is another mans treasure" just because one person can`t get a filter to work for them they swears them off ,doesn`t mean this holds true to everyone. This is only my opinion and I only hope this helps your problems.

Chitown1 · 03-05-2007, 07:17 AM

If / when you raise the salinity, do it slowly over the period of a few water changes, do not do it all at once or it may cause a shock to your system and livestock. I keep mine at 1.026 in all 12 tanks.

rayjay · 03-05-2007, 12:53 PM

I fully aggree with Chitown1 on HOB's and cannisters. To be effective they almost need cleaning twice a week.
Without the filter contents though it's a way to keep water moving and all I've read on cyano is that increased flow is an aid in combatting the problem.
I also agree with moving the s.g. up slowly. Too fast a change is definitely worse than too low.